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Upgrades/ Improvments/ Tips

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Category: Nitro
Forum Name: Nitro Touring
Forum Discription: Discussion on everything nitro touring
URL: http://www.racing-cars.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1017
Printed Date: 16 July 2019 at 11:45am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 10.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Upgrades/ Improvments/ Tips
Posted By: kiwi7
Subject: Upgrades/ Improvments/ Tips
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 8:04am

I have been thinking about this for a couple of days.

I think it would be good if anyone who has bright idea that they put on their fusion, be it an upgrade to improve performance, something to improve looks, or a tip that would help others should post it here. Then we can all share the ideas and make our cars better. (providing a web link would be fantastic)

So come on if we all contribute one thing then we will all learn a lot!This nitro turing forum is starting to get moving so lets keep it going.




Replies:
Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 8:08am

Im with you on this one, Any thing i do will be posted with pics on here



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 8:52am

Ok I hope this works, there has been a lot of talk re air filters. I have had the standard fusion air filter, a K & N and now 1/8 buggy motorsaver air filter. I have found the best to be the motorsaver. Looks wise the K& N was the best but as I learnt on a number of websites this could be putting my engine at risk so I replaced it. I bought mine on e bay through http://rchopups.co.uk/ - http://rchopups.co.uk/  Also the motorsaver has a three stage filtration system.

The only other thing you will have to do unless you run a ute body is cut a larger hole in your shell to accomodate this. On mine I have used a circle cutter. In fact having cut this hole I think has made improvments in the overall air flow. If the photos have not worked I will post a link.



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 9:27am

Ok here's my two cent's worth.......

Here's the way I charge my fusion it beats buying batteries all the time its all availible from your local hobby store and you dont need to take off your battery box lid all the time.

Heres the first pic all set up in the car now i've had this set up as long as i've been into car's and has'ent caught or snaged anything. Its the wire poking out of the battery box witch plugs into the charger witch plugs into the mains.

And here it is pluged into the charger..I have the battery box out of the car for the pic's....The other out let you can see plugs into the back of your pistol grip and charges the same time as your car....

Now the rechargable battery I chose was the sanyo like the one in the next picture....

Now the next pic is the whole assembley shown with the battery box off all the wiring is in the on/off switch you can buy them at any hobby store its the same as a normal one but has an extra wire off the +pos side to allow charging of the sanyo battery inside.....

Once assembled you need neva take the battery boxlid off only to do major repairs or change of reciever etc....... so next pic is assembled again ready to be put back in the car........

So as easy as that you can just plug your car into the mains and charge over nite or whateva Even inbetween runs like I do just to make sure its at full charge......

 

Hope its helpfull but definatly pays off in the long run........



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 9:55am

Totally agree with  Blade I have got the same system, it saves money in the long run.I use a pro peak 2500 battery charger which I can fast charge or trickle with.



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 10:17am

There have been some posts about mounting temp gauges. I mounted mine on the top deck behind the motor. There is enough space in front of the upper suspension mount. Most temp gauges will come with sticky foam so that you can secure it or alternatively stationery shops sell them. Mounting here also means you can view easily view the gauge through the rear wind shield.Old photo with K & N by the way. If you other want to show some ideas here is a that tells you how to mount photos onto your posts.



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 11:03am

Nice work .......

 

 

ps is the upper deck on your fusion ally kiwi7.?



Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 12:55pm

hmm im gonna have to look into one of those chargers

 



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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 1:03pm

Yes it is aircraft grade aluminium, custom made, lighter, stronger, looks good and will help me with a modification I plan to do in the next 3 months.

Come on Sirus, tell us an idea for the fusion.... anything for looks, extra control or engine



Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 1:11pm
strengthened aluminium, they use it in tanks between layers of armor for strength, nice, i bet that cost you a pretty penny

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Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 1:14pm
You make it your self ....... i've a friend who  has a plasma cutter at work was going to get him to try the same thing even a chassis or two and get it polished .....


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 1:16pm
No I bought it, would probably cost you $120-$150 Aus dollars by the time you included postage.


Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 1:16pm
im working on a vapour fuel injection system, but thats about all

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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 1:18pm

Make sure you post on this thread when you have more of an idea Sirus then we can use it as a resource for oursleves and other fusion owners.



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 1:21pm

I see os has a fuel ingected four stroke motor out now thats where the super charger would be handy.....hehe  will try and get a pic up soon. Ok its a plane engine but cars cant be to far away......

 

 

 



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 2:03pm

Just did this mod today as well (yes been busy today) put the r12 carbon brake disk kit on and must say after a few runs definitly out runs the stock brake the fusion comes with... heres a pic....

The kit comes with new shoes and all the gear to refreash you braking system on the fusion...The part number is U2588y......



Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 5:11pm
This was my first shell i done but i did not wash or lightly sand the shell just wanted to get it done and after one run it looked like this because the paint had nothing to grip to and chiped of. So never rush things or you end up with a shell like this /leescar

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 5:18pm

Excellent tip Lee, here is a very good link that will help those wanting to paint a new shell.

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/body_paint.asp - http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/body_paint.asp



Posted By: nitrohead5300
Date Posted: 05 February 2005 at 5:53pm
Blade954, fuel injection is not new to rc cars they had a injection system out for cars back in the early 90's . But the company that made the system lost license rights to the technology so they went out of business.


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 1:19am

Ok just an extension on the battery post earlier. I have also fitted a battery monitor to my hump pack so that I can see when I need to recharge. A cheap project only a few pounds but it helps.



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 2:39am
Kiwi7 do I detect alloy upper mounts on the fusion ........


Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 5:56am
yeh i noe somone had a fuel injection system, but it wasnt vapour which is why it didnt work very well, and they didnt have QUT working with them, which leads the world in alot of experimental technologys.

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Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 6:14am

Can some one tell me is rb mods in the U.S or U.K.........



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 8:30am

Purple alloy upgrades....................... (they look great)

My philosophy with regard to this may be different than others but like I said it it is my opinion. I have upgraded the parts that I feel are at the heart of the stength of my car with purple alloy, ie the diff mounts and the upper suspension mount as I feel that this will provide overall strength to my set up. I could go and purchase some other pieces such as the upper wishbones and hub carriers by my feeling with regard to this is that these items which sit on periphery (the outside) of the car will provide strength but if I hit something ( which I can admit to doing) the impact will be transfered through these peices into more weaker parts thus causing damage. The part I have had to replace most in my car are the lower wishbones and imagine that if I had upper alloy wishbone and alloy hub the chances of having to replace this would increase.  I also think you have to be careful as the alloy parts though only fractionally weigh more if its is speed your after then cut down the weight. They also don't come cheap and I sure that if you gave your car a full going over in purple alloy your Mum, Dad or girlfriend/ wife ( or bank manager) would probably look like this.

Anyway here  a couple of pictures of the upgrades that I feel are most useful. You can find them on this site, if you go into product finder put alloy as the key word and select fusion 21 and a list will appear that will probaly have you reaching for the credit card. Hope this is of help, you may disagree.

I also have M4 and M3 nyloc purple alloy nuts but they are just for looks more than anything.



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 8:40am
Yes i've heard that the alloy hubs can do more damage that you could think, And as I call these things disposible items Hubs,upper and lower arms its definatly cheeper than buying alloy all the time.


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 9:23am

I would be intersted to see pictures/ text of anyones ideas for anything and why they did it. It dosn't have to be grand just any kind tip( ie starting, performace, handling, looks)

Has anyome fitted a NTC 3 low centre gravity fuel tank to there fusion. I have seen this done but I was wondering if the mounting holes on the fusion chassis match up or whether you need to drill new holes?

 

 



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 12:56pm
I have ordered my alloy upper mounts along with a few other bits cant wait.... also am going to give the drilling thing on the 3 spd gearing that nitrohead told us....


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 1:15pm
Come on Nitrohead show us some pictures and instructions........................please. You must have some school holidays coming up where you show us some more of your tricks.


Posted By: nitrohead5300
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 3:06pm

Kiwi7 no vacations not for a looooooooooooog time The kids at my school have cabin fever!! They can't go out to play after school because of the snow or rain! I have a special winter project going on with my Fusion !! If it works I will post some pictures of it . I stretched the chassis out to 235mm  and mounted Serpent 235mm tires all around. My objective is to improve high speed handling.



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 06 February 2005 at 3:17pm

Unlucky mate my students go on holiday this Thursday. Do the 1/10 mugen tyres fit standard onto the hexes on the fusion? (ie I have seen some ellegi ones that look good)



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 8:48am

Well here is another tip that I thourght that i would pass on....Its the removal and replacement of the e-start system hex bolt you can do it at home with a vice and basic allen keys so here goe's.......

First I remove the engine from the car now you don't have to do this but makes it easier i think like this........

Second remove the four small allen keys from around the e-start to end up with this.........

So now you will end up with this...........

Now turn the one way bearing around like this..........

Now place the bottom half in your vice taking extreame caution not to over tighten the vice, and squash the bearing like this........

Now put in the allen key and un screw with the one way bearing upside down it will grip on the shaft and let you unscrew the bolt once bolt is out you will end up with something like this.......

Now I give all a wipe down with a rag and then inspect the o-ring and then reassemble the whole e-start system carefully, witch will then look like this........

Now place the one way bearing back in the e-start assembly to which you should have this again......

Now your ready to place the e-start system back in the motor remember to place the concave bit up top like this.......

and once you have the system back in just wiggle the hex nut un till in locates back into the crank groove then replace the four small hex nuts......

hope it helps some newbies



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 10:36am

Fantastic Blade, now we are getting things moving mate, keep up the good work and come on you others!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Another point while you have got the one way bearing out give it a wipe down before you put it back it.

 



Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 11:13am

This page helped me out a few time's so i thouht i put it on here to help other's check it out if your having engine trouble http://www.hobbytalk.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=47&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0 - http://www.hobbytalk.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=New s&file=article&sid=47&mode=thread&order=0&am p;thold=0



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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 11:18am

Hey I have just checked it out. An excellent link and I am sure very useful for a lot of people.

Thanks mate I have printed it off



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 11:42am
Exellent link lee_c have also printed it out....


Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 1:14pm

Heres another tip when you disassemble your lower arms clean the hinge pins in the drill with some polishing compound on the shaft then put the cloth over and squeese the rag on the shaft and the spin the drill around and polish the shaft to mirror finish. It then should sway freely backwards and forwards on the pin........ 

It also helps to determine if the pin is strait while you spin it around.... 



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 5:52pm

There have been a few people asking about replacing gears and also gear meshing. I have currently got my gears off my fusion as I replacing the brake pad with the ventilated R12 version.( which will hopefully arrive tomorrow). Replacing gears is pretty easy,the hardest thing I found was getting 1st gear of once I had stripped the others back. I found that the flanged bearings can sometimes be pretty hard to move, I suggest using a very fine screw driver or some needle nose pliers or you my just have to give the spur gear a gentle pull. As long as you follow your manual and work backwards from page 19 to 17 you should be fine. My black gears had some chipped teeth so I replaced them with the white ones and they seem to be a bit tougher.( they come as white standard at the moment) While you have got your gears off you might as well take your brake out and give it a clean. A tip that I have picked up through reading is that if you havd a carbon fibre/ composite brake pad and steel calipers that you can give the disc a light sanding which will improve brake grip.(thanks to Nitrohead for confirming that for me)  I found the best way to do this was to lay the sandpaper on the table flat and move the disc in slow circular motions. ( you can see the slighty ruffened surface on the brake pad below, remember don't go wild) . So here a couple of pictures to get you on the way. ( If you have all the parts on hand it won't take long) When my new brake arrives tomorrow I will post pictures of how to ensure that your gears are meshed properly back into the pinion bell. One other pointer that may be useful to you. When you take it all apart have some ziplock bags handy there are some small pieces that can easily be lost.

 



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 7:50pm

Some time ago we talked about boost bottles. I was very happy when I got home tonight and there was a parcel from the US. Inside was one of the boost bottles I had ordered. So I have fitted it in the manner I was told would work from a couple of people in the know and here are the results. I have also seen a couple of fusions in person with the bottle fitted this way. It was really easy to fit as all I had to do was undo a screw and replace it with the screw that came in the kit. By chance it was purple alloy and carbon fibre. I have another one arriving and probably put that on ebay but I will let you guys know if I do that.

Hope you like the picture, it was really easy mod and is suppose to  give a more responsive powerband and increase in bottom end acceleration so I will see how it goes. Hope people are finding the ideas we are putting on of use.



Posted By: matt1049
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 8:23pm

most of the things here ive got down pretty well from experience but this so far is a great thread that i hope doesnt die, keep up the good work guys and ill post my own stuff when i think of it or grab pics

(this is awesome, i dont know how many times ive tried to help explaining how to remove the screw from the estart to ppl having trouble, some things u just will never miss)



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http://www.picturetrail.com/gid5002039 - PICS! -Commonly Updated
Rides-Xtr-3e,Xtr,& Stampede beater


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 07 February 2005 at 8:32pm
Thanks mate if others jump on board it will only get better! 


Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 10:51am

thread is lookin good, i got my fusion back together today, i baught some alloy diff mounts 60 fn bux, and only for 1 diff! i mean come on that abit of a rip job, and befor you say they are cheaper at metro blade  , i know lol, i just forgot to get frontline to match prices.

anyway i got it on the road, sat everything down set it up to get started, and i took it slow cos its first time in a few months, but i put the glow plug on and i put the key in and started turning, primed it, then tryed to get it to start, and it just wouldent start, and im like wtf's goin on, so i checked the battery(on my tounge lol) and there was charge, so i put it back and tryed it again, so i thought screw it i'll try a battery out of my reciever, AND THE DAM THING STARTED, i was pissed, so i launched the big stipid battery down the street, then my cordless ran out of battery, so i had to go inside, i didnt even get to drive it



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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 11:06am
We have all had days like that!(well at least those of us who will admit it)


Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 11:10am
Sirus,sirus,sirus mate when you can go rechargables do it you could have charged every thing last nite and had her running..... Sorry to hear.....would make me   to........


Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 11:12am
yes me to have had days where i just put it back in the box.......hehe


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 1:13pm

Recently a couple of us were talking about removing the shim between the top of the engine and cooling head to increase compression. Well I checked with Chris at Schumacher and he has got back to me and said it is not possible as the the piston will then hit the base of the head. ( Glad I waited or it would have been )



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 1:16pm
Pheeww I was so tempted to start it up glade I dident would have been sending the new motor to rbmods a lot quicker than I hoped..... 


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 6:00pm

When you replace your gears or have them off for any reason one of the most important things is that when you put them back together that you get a good mesh between the gears and the pinion bell. If you have the connection to tight then you will get premature wear and too loose you could possibly strip the teeth from your gears. If you use a piece of paper as shown below and place it between the gears and pinion bell before you tighten the nut on the outside of the gears and screw the engine down then you will get a perfect mesh.

Once you have carefully put the piece of paper in then tighten the nut on the outside of the gears and screw the engine down. Its up to you but some people use threadlock on the engine bolts that screw into the engine mounts.( it pays to check these as if the are loose then they will cause the pinion bell to move which can also cause dmage ot the gears. Once everything is tight just remove the paper by moving the gears forward by hand and you should then have a good mesh. Hope that helps.

Has anyone got any ideas regarding trying to stop the drill rubbing against the header pipe when you use the e start? ( I was going to change to a rear exhaust but found it more trouble than it was worth)

 



Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 7:29pm

Good tip that will come in handy got to get a new belt soon and have to strip my whole car for the first time



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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 7:36pm
To stop the dill grinding the header pipe file the hex drill bit to make it round and smooth then it give's a bit more room and don't eat away at your header pipe.

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 7:39pm
Thanks mate I will give that a go if got a couple of spare hex drives as you get a new one each time you order an e start bolt!


Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 7:49pm
Here's 10 cheap trick's to make your fusion faster not that it need's to be http://www.storacingproducts.com/rc-cars-planes/html_templates/storacing_templates/horsepower.htm - http://www.storacingproducts.com/rc-cars-planes/html_templat es/storacing_templates/horsepower.htm

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 8:41pm

Lee mate, such a good idea. Had a play round and this is what I came up with. Have taken the edges of the driver and it is so much better. I think I will spray with WD-40 before use aswell to lubricate slightly. Thanks again!



Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 8:53pm
Look's good mate that's how i wanted mine but i got carried away and done it a bit thin but it do make starting better

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 08 February 2005 at 11:07pm
Fellas I was told to try graphite powder in the hex head and have no problems the good thing is that its dry and flings off once started it comes in a squeezy bottle with a nozel so not messy either.......


Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 09 February 2005 at 7:23am
yeh i use graphite powder, great stuff.

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Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 09 February 2005 at 7:25am

as a hints and tips section, everyone should place their toe in and out settings and any other ones they can think of, dont put them all on one line as its hard to read and makes my eyes confused



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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 09 February 2005 at 5:14pm

Good idea Sirus I would really appreciate any help on setting my car up to handle better aswell.

Doubling up on retainer springs

If you are buying a new header pipe this can be a quick modification you can do which isn't for looks but more for safety and it was shown to me a by a guy who has an rc truck. When you get your header pipe you will get a new spring to retain the pipe with. Instead of throwing the old one away or keeping in your parts box put it to use by doubling up. All you need to do is drill to small holes in the bracket that holds the exhaust to the engine and there you go double the protection, so if you crash there is less chance of the header pipe removing itself. Not a flashy mod but one for those of a more sensible mind Most of the tips we have put on here can be applied to to other rc vehicles and in particular the Menace



Posted By: nitrohead5300
Date Posted: 09 February 2005 at 9:26pm
Originally posted by sirus sirus wrote:

as a hints and tips section, everyone should place their toe in and out settings and any other ones they can think of, dont put them all on one line as its hard to read and makes my eyes confused

................Sirus on the front of my fusion I usually run 1/2 degree  - 1 degree toe-out. And on the rear I usually run 1 1/2  - 2 degrees toe-in.


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 09 February 2005 at 10:43pm

I was wondering if anyone has any ideas of the best type of fuel filter. I have a screw together silver one but I have seen longer looking ones in photos( I think they might be mugen ones but not sure) Also my fuel tank already has filter inside it( I think it might be standard),  was wondering how to tell if this internal one is past it's best?

Cheers for any help



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 09 February 2005 at 10:51pm
I got a eagle racing one with a oring seal in the middle and every time i use it it weeps so i took it off was meant to be one of the best but with the fusion i havent run 1 due to the one in the tank .....and havent had any problems....


Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 09 February 2005 at 11:02pm
I got a fuel filter on mine kiwi7 but i think the fuel tank has got a filter in it because mine was blocked is it that little black ball in the tube ?

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 10 February 2005 at 7:18am
lol shouldent be anything in the tubes, its a gold thing inside the tank, it does come standard, but its not a good one, i was gonna buy one, but i forgot, and now i forgot which one it was, and if that fuel filter seeps man take it back, or check what gauge fuel line it was built for because it shouldent do that at all, and if you do put another filter in, dont try to take the one in the tank out, its impossible with out breaking the fuel tank, there was a post about this befor the forums got upgraded.

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Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 10 February 2005 at 12:02pm

Has anyone got the pro diff's in there fusion yet, i have alot of problem's with diff's so thinking about geting them if anyone's got them or got some info on them let me know thanks



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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 10 February 2005 at 12:15pm
Ask sirus think he just put them in......


Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 10 February 2005 at 12:17pm

i have one :P, i think that its not so much the diff that's screwing up, but what its sitting on, and wats holding the belt in place, id try MAYBE glueing the diff fence's on, and the bearings that they have that sit on the diff to make it roll smooth, they are good bearings but they arnt the best, i got extra high clearince bearings, at 15 bux a pop LOL, they are 1 hell of a lot smoother, and thats compairing them to the PRO diff that i just got, also make sure you got alloy diffmounts, as expencive as they are, they do make a difference.

also seal the holes in your chassy with duct tape, stones dont get caught in there for very long and you dont notice them, but they do get there, tear at the teeth on your diff pully, and then fall out, so it screws it.



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Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 10 February 2005 at 2:32pm
Cheer's sirus iv seen alloy diff mount's hub carriers ect...............at my LHS and yer seen the price of umbut i will still be tempted get them anyway they do lk the beeeeeeee's and if they help my driving out a little there be worth it.

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 10 February 2005 at 6:08pm

We talked about this in an earlier post but I thought I would show you what I got in my replacement screw kit for the fusion. It arrived today and I was really impressed, I have replacments for all screws on my fusion and no longer will need to order bits and pieces here and there. All the screws etc are stainless steel and very good quality.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/kiwie7/DSC01252.jpg">

The link for this product is : http://www.jespares.com/catalog/index.php - http://www.jespares.com/catalog/index.php  ,just look in the stainless steel screw kits section under Schumacher and you will find it.(also it has good section on the benefits of this upgrade and many other products to browse as well. The customer service is great and I have had a very quick response to any questions. Anyway I think it was a wise purchase and now when I lose a screw I will not have to wait a couple of days for a replacement to arrive. They also do a screw kit for the menace.



Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 6:05am
holy jebus, dam im saving and buying, that dam little star allen key thing i always screw up the screws with it :P, ive got some titanium speed secret screws that i use to screw into the plastic parts, and they rock , but that would be awsome to have!

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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 7:47am
Sirus they also have an excellent allen driver set which is much better to use than allen keys. Also they are an excellent price compared to other name brands.


Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 8:37am
I have one of those torx 10 bits in a electric drill make for easy work am in the middle of changing the torx bits for allens but am looking if i can get anodised bolts.....

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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 6:11pm

Ok I have finally got my fusion back together and the forecast looks reasonable for the weekend so hopefully I will give it a run. Thought you guys might like to see some photos. If you want any info re the cooling head send me a PM and I will send you the details for the supplier. I got it from America and a bit cheaper than getting it from the UK. Anyway I would be pleased to hear any opinions on what you think of it now and if you have any more ideas for improvements or tips for running etc. If you are intersted in a boost bottle for your fusion or menace I have one for sale at: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=5956299902&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category =19168&item=5956299902&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/kiwie7/DSC01259.jpg -


Posted By: nitrohead5300
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 8:14pm
KIWI 7 ...............That is one super clean fine looking machine!


Posted By: col7104
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 8:26pm
Couldn't have put it better myself!

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http://www.sloganizer.net/en/">


Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 10:08pm
Now that's what talking about............ Kiwi7.............you got one hell of a bling bling car very nice work matewhat engine you useing?

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 10:16pm
It is just the standard fusion engine with an upgraded cooling head


Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 10:24pm
yer sorry mate i dident read your post carefully.......i did realise after i posted........ what shell you useing for it

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 10:32pm
Subaru at the moment, still fits with head


Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 10:39pm
Shocked me it looked look it wasent going to fit i had trouble with 3 of my shell's that's with the normal head...........happy driving then

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 10:47pm
I would of had that boost bottle of you kiwi7 but i can't join ebay with my cash card

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 11 February 2005 at 10:59pm
Nice work kiwi7 hope it goes as hard as it looks, Hes definatly got the bug hey boys........nice car

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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 8:03am

Lee C, I do have to have shell slightly higher than  would like but it will do for now, I am going to send Schumacher an e- mail and see which frewer shell has the most clearance in this area and then probably upgrade to that.

Also so mate if you won the boost bottle, you could send me a cheque I guess I could  do that for anyone on the forum, you would just have to wait for the cheque to clear. Let me know.



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 8:09am

Also I was thinking anyone wanting to do the upgrade on the cooling head, please take note.  I strongly recommend that you get the right tools for the job. Removing the head securing bolts can be difficult at the best ot times and an allen key frankly does not do the job. Get a set of allen drivers, if you ruin the head of bolt, meaning you can't get it unscrew it, the only way you could then possibly get the bolts of would be cutting the fins of the head with a grinder so you could get to them.(ouch)  The place I recommended for the screw set has a set of allen drivers for about 9 and they are excellent.

Just a tip - right tools for the right job!



Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 10:34am

Well I tried my car out with the new head, boost bottle and brakes.

The average temp I'm pretty sure has dropped by 35-40 F

The R12 brakes with a light sanding are a big improvement ( its stops significantly quicker)

Acceleraton is very good

 A very happy man indeed

No I am just wanting for my 35mms

 

 



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 11:04am

whats the height difference in the heads kiwi7 ??

go the ute shell......

 



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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 11:13am

Here you will see the difference



Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 11:16am


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Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 11:39am

Just wanted to know me thinks that it will stick out over the roof a bit.............

What do you think.......



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Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 12:52pm

Kiwi7 mate............if you still got that boost bottle i will send the money to you



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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 1:23pm
Lee c on ebay a Schumacher forum member has already bid so it would unfair if I didn't leave it on there.  If you want  to bid on ebay I will take a cheque.


Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 1:29pm

Never mind mate ill keep an eye out for one..........cheer's anyway



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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 12 February 2005 at 2:12pm
kiwi7 post a link from where you sourced yours from am interested myself.......

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Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 13 February 2005 at 9:07am
Any one on here run the titanium lower hinge pins I'm sick of bending the metal ones are they all what they are cracked up to be.....

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Posted By: Hawkeye
Date Posted: 13 February 2005 at 5:28pm

Well dont know whether to put this here but ill see. Well heres the part this bit

adn as its plastic and broke im thinking of cnc routering an alloy one in college, unless schumacher do one any one able to help. thanks 



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Byron fuel


Posted By: lee_c
Date Posted: 13 February 2005 at 10:33pm
Anyone now what are good spring's to get for the fusion i got the standerd yellow one's but they seem a bit hard, need some thing abit softer.........any help  

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FUSION + C**P DRIVER = DANGER!!!!!!!!!   


Posted By: marshall878
Date Posted: 13 February 2005 at 10:42pm
anyone have any trouble with the diff walls falling off the diff and wearing away? ive gone through  loads of diff walls and its annoying

oh for the above post, try the blues, when i was at snetterton last year everyone was running them and ive noticed a huge difference


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Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 14 February 2005 at 12:16am
lee check out my last post in fusion handling......

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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 14 February 2005 at 7:50am
I would be interested to know if anoyone has upgraded their servos on their fusion and if so if you have found better handling and control?


Posted By: sirus
Date Posted: 14 February 2005 at 8:06am
doesnt really matter, about servo's fusion dosent put much torque on them so reply time wouldent vary, but speed on which it reaches it max might make a difference, i use futaba s3003 servo's, they r just standard ones, but for a little more they have better ones with more torque and speed.

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Posted By: kiwi7
Date Posted: 14 February 2005 at 8:09am
I was thinking of upgrading my throttle servo to improve off line acceleration and braking. But then I guess if I did this  Iwould want to go in a striaght line so maybe upgrading the steering servo may help in this regard.


Posted By: blade954
Date Posted: 14 February 2005 at 8:20am

I had am when i first started but changed to fm, I myself found it was quicker and less interferance when using the car.....

 

The jr's i upgraded to were about $100.00 each....



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