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simmo0916 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21 October 2008 at 11:03pm
Hey guys, im fairly new to the hobby, and have decided to purchase the Fusion. I' not without experience, as i have built 4 or 5 Tamiya electrics, and regularly drive a TT-01 Brushless, but decided 45mph just isn't fast enough!
So... i really need help starting out. With the Fusion RTR kit what else do i need? Should i replace anything that comes in the box? What oils and lubes should i be using etc? Just any good tips would be great!
I know i can get this info on various websites, but i would rather have it coming from experienced Fusion owners!

Im in the UK if that helps at all.
Thanks a lot guys.

Alex
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La La View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote La La Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 October 2008 at 4:51pm

hi welcome to the world of nitro m8! Have you got a nitro starter set? if not you can get them of this site and they come with all you need to start your engine and egust it. A stand helps and because you have not run the engine in you might need this to run it in. Wd40 is good for genral stuff and some halfords muckoff spray or somthing is good for cleaning. if you would like more info ask again

welcome the the forum La La

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simmo0916 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 October 2008 at 10:11pm
Thanks La La, much appreciated. Yeah i will grab a starter pack when i buy the car (next week :)). Really looking forward to it. I read somewhere that 5-6 tanks is enough to break in the engine, increasing the throttle with each tank. Is that correct?
Also i heard about some oil you run through the engine after a long run... what is this stuff and how is it used?
Sorry for all the questions, but i really am new to nitro, i dont know what everything on the engine does etc. I usually build all my cars, which helps me along with understanding what everything does and how it all works, but with the fusion it comes RTR, and i dont fancy dismantling it just to see whats going on! If it ain't broke....
Also, should i invest in some spares of things that break often or need replacing a lot? If so... what are they!
Thanks Guys :)

Alex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mofi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 October 2008 at 10:32pm

Originally posted by simmo0916 simmo0916 wrote:

Also i heard about some oil you run through the engine after a long run... what is this stuff and how is it used?

I think you mean 'after-run oil' which is a complete myth and only used by gullible and deluded people who think that their engine will spontaneously combust if it isn't used.

'after-run oil' is just a lubricant that has been repackaged by fuel suppliers to get more money from people who do not understand a nitro engine's workings.

It was first used by r/c model plane flyers who used to store their planes for the winter months, 6+ months and needed to prevent their engines from seizing from standing still for months.

Unless you plan on storing your model for several months then squirting 'after-run oil' down the carb inlet after everytime you play with your model is pointless and is borderlining on actually damaging the engine.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simmo0916 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 October 2008 at 6:52am
Thankyou very much mofi, looks like you saved me from being the gullible one and actually using this stuff. I'm now glad i asked for advice on this forum!
I have read 3/4 of the sticky thread that contains tips and tricks etc, but i understand very little of it, so this kind of information is what i need! I'm looking for a smooth change from electric to nitro, so anything else i need to know, no matter how basic, Is really welcome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simmo0916 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 October 2008 at 7:37am
Also, another bone question, but what fuel do you recommend? I know there are different mixes, and I'm unsure what this actually does and why you would use specific fuel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mofi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 October 2008 at 9:27am

The main differences between nitro fuels are manufacturer, nitro percentage content and oil percentage content - this can be synthetic or mineral (castor) oil.

Manufacturer is more of a personal preference but I find O'Donnells or Byrons the best.  Tornado is not bad but I would avoid Model Technics - it's VERY oily (even the 'lower' oil content) and smells horrid when burnt.

Nitro percentage is more critical to engine size, glowplug rating and ambient temperature.  The nitro contents are most commonly 10%, 16%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35% and insane 40%.  Model Technics do a claimed 18% but that's nasty anyway.

10-20% is really for upto .18 sized engines, 20%+ is for big block (over .21 sized) engines.

All engines will run on all nitro content but small engines are prone to blowing up with high % and bigger engines 'bog' and don't fully rev easily on low %, without being set ridiculously lean.

That said, for example, a .18 engine running on 20% fuel can be set rich and give comparable performance to the same engine set lean on 10% fuel, allowing it to run cooler and last longer.

Nitro content directly effects the price - the higher the nitro content, the more expensive the fuel.

Oil content is not so selectable because manufacturers tend to have a standard oil content for a given nitro content i.e 20% nitro tends to have 11-13% oil content.  You can get different oil content for the same nitro content but unless you are running marine or aero/helicopter engines then I'd just stick to the manufacturers' standard.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote La La Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 October 2008 at 12:59pm

Ye most race nitro tends to be goog but have a look around and find 1 you like. also you will need some oilly nitro to start with to run the engine in and do a bottle of that and then you can get on to the race stuff! also get a spare glow start because the somtimes blow and a cluch spring cozz mine have gone a couple of times.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mofi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 October 2008 at 6:51pm

It's also a myth that you need an 'oily' fuel for the breaking-in process.  You can quite easily break-in an engine on 20-25% fuel with a relatively low oil content - you just need to set the needles rich.

It's always a good practice to break-in an engine on the fuel you intend to eventually run it on.

Using a fuel with a high oil content will merely load up the piston/liner with oil that that will have to be burnt off and it also covers the rest of the model in a residue that you'll have to spend hours cleaning off.

Buy the fuel you intend to run the engine on, set the needles to rich and use an exhaust deflector to direct the gases/oil away from the model during the break-in process.

Also be aware that you will be incredibly lucky if you don't have 3-6 glowplugs fail when the engine is breaking-in because swarf from the piston/liner will hit the glowplug element and break it.

Probably the best investment you can make is on decent tools, particularly hex or Allen key drivers - Hudy brand are regarded to be the best.  Also a decent glowplug wrench with spring plug retainer and a narrow bodied no.1 flatblade screwdriver are a must.



Edited by Mofi
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simmo0916 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simmo0916 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 6:55am
Ok, so you mentioned atmospheric conditions... So i should be going for say, a 20% nitro fuel? WIth it being cold and all? Also how do i know which glow plugs are suitable for the fuel i use?
Will it be helpful to start the car inside in a warmer environment, then drive it outside? Or will this cause problems?

Alex
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Mofi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mofi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 9:18am

20% is a good compromise in all conditions as it's 'mid-range' and if the temperature varies then just richen or lean the settings accordingly.  I've found the No.8 OS plug to work well with 20% fuel.

If it's REALLY cold then use a hotter plug with the same fuel.

Weirdly nitro engines like colder weather as the air is denser, which means more oxygen.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote La La Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 1:13pm
Hey mofi when you are off road racing what make fuel do you use? i have been mucking around with bryrons race fuel but it makes the car pritty oily and there is a bit of residue. when i broke the engine in i used a bottel(12 tanks)of rich stuff and it made hell loads of residue and i was cleaning it out every hour!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simmo0916 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 7:51pm
Thanks guys, will invest in lots of spares at the same time as i buy the car. Is there anything worth replacing from the start?
Also, you would'nt happen to know anywhere in the UK who do custom spray jobs on bodyshells? I have a design i want doing, but dont have the skill to do it.
Also, will i need some of the tyre glue with it all? or does it come with the kit? If i do need it, what is it called? (lol)
Sorry for asking all the questions!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mofi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 8:02pm

"Is there anything worth replacing from the start?"

I'd just run it out of the box and upgrade parts as they break but PLEASE try and find upgrades that are not purple anodised!

I've never bought a RTR model so don't know if the tyres are glued on or not but it's worth getting some decent tyre glue anyway, as most 'factory bonded' tyres are stuck on with Pritt stick!  Zap CA glue is probably the best tyre glue you can get - unless someone else knows otherwise?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simmo0916 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 9:32pm
Thanks for the reply Mofi!
I'm curious now though, why not purple anodised parts??
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La La View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote La La Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 9:37pm
ye the tyres are are glued
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mofi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 9:46pm

Originally posted by simmo0916 simmo0916 wrote:

Thanks for the reply Mofi!
I'm curious now though, why not purple anodised parts??

I have a personal hatred of purple anodised alloy parts and avoid them at all costs.  They make the model look garish, cheap and 'girly'.

My 2-speed Hyper 7 is almost entirely black or gunmetal grey - including the fuel lines (blooming hard to get hold of) and body clips.  Far classier than the psuedo pink that purple anodised alloy is

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 9:49pm
The problem with that Mofi is that Schumacher doesn't seem to do them in any other colour.  Which (if you want to upgrade) leaves you kind of limited...

Edited by Paul M
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote La La Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 9:50pm
lol i so agree i had a purpple chassie but i painted it black
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mofi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2008 at 10:10pm

It's not just Schumacher who seem to only do standard or upgraded parts in purple anodised alloy - HPI and Kyosho also seem to have only found one colour from their alloy anodising company.  Although Kyosho's own team do do their stuff in black and HoBao stopped all of their purple alloy stuff a couple of years ago and now favour gunmetal grey.

The latest recently released version of the HoBao Hyper 7 is even called the '"Black" and features quite a few 'stock' parts that I bought for my Hyper over a year ago from Hong Kong.  But the "Black" still doesn't have as much black on it as mine

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