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ripnu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ripnu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2006 at 3:37am
I have a tip but its for the Havoc and roereruk has already mentioned something about it.

The Havoc has tendancy to break the front wheels at the hub doing high jumps (especially when landing on concrete)

I put some steel wheel adaptors like you would have on the rear but into the front, aswell as the purple allow hub adaptors...
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sevo. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sevo. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2006 at 7:02pm
tip for the havoc clutch!!! use 5 bearinsin the clutch bell it offers better stability and less movement of the bearings thus longer life span!!! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBDUO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 March 2006 at 5:11pm

E-Start Replacement

You need to take the e-start unit off the back of the engine (make sure you use the right sized allen keys for the mounting screws, as they strip really easily!) and then once you have taken it of, give everything a bit of a clean and lubrication with a spray of WD40.

Right to get the bolt out...the one way bearing which is the big metal thing with grooves facing outwards, take it out and reverse and put it back in, so the grooves are facing the other way.  Don't put it all the way in however, about half way!  Now, you need to find a cloth or an old rag, and put this around the one way slip bearing and then grip the bearing really tight in a vice or with mulgrips (if you use mulgrips, make sure you have 2 sets to get the bolt out).  With the bearing securely gripped, get some mulgrips and attach firmly to the e-start bolt on the other side and unscrew as you would any other bolt!

To put the new bolt in, make sure you turn the one way slip bearing round the other way again, so grooves facing out, and grip again with vice or mulgrips and then tighten the e-start bolt till it is tight.  Wipe everything clean again and then:-

Put the e-start unit back on the engine, making sure the flat part of the unit is facing UP (otherwise the piston hits it on the way down)

Part Numbers:

G562L for bolt 4.99
G514e for one way bearing 10.99
G556 Complete Assembly 29.99

More help here: http://www.racing-cars.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1017&am p;PN=1&TPN=2

Graham  



Edited by GBDUO
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GBDUO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBDUO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 10:58pm

www.glypo.co.uk

This is another brilliant website/forum if you want any further help.

Graham

 



Edited by GBDUO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 11:02pm
I have a tip.... Dont use a plastic knife to stab yourself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBDUO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 11:04pm

Differnt Run In Method to Heat Cycling

See i don't like the heat cycling because it means you got to wait to actually drive it (and i am an inpatient bugger!).  My way of running in an engine is actually to run the engine really rich (start the engine on factory settings and then unscrew the HSN until the engine just about runs when you apply throttle (so about a turn out)).  You then fill the tank up, and then in figure of 8 circles using 1/4 throttle and no more just go round for 2 tanks of fuel.  Then start using 1/2 throttle for another tank of fuel.  On the 4th Tank of fuel, start to lean out the mixture by 1/4 turns at  a time, then half a tank of fuel (between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle) and then a further 1/4 turn on the HSN.  Fill the tank up again and just keep leaning out the mixture until you get a good smoke trail and the engine picks up straight from idle and accelerates and does not stall.

So

Figure of 8 track

2 Tanks: Very rich, engine just about running, 1/4 Throttle

3rd Tank: Very Rich, 1/2 Throttle

4th Tank: Start leaning out by 1/4 turns, between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle,half way through the tank lean the mixture out again by 1/4 turn

5th Tank: Start using full throttle and continue leaning out the mixture by 1/4 turns every half tank

6th Tank: Getting close to optimum settings, keep leaning out till it stalls out, then open the HSN by 1/8 turn and that should be about optimum. 

7th Tank: Fully Run in and have some fun!

The good thing about this technique is that you not only run in the engine but also the transmission.

Hope this helps

Graham



Edited by GBDUO
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lincsrc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lincsrc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 11:13pm

cleaning tips.

use pressureized air to blow the dirt off

use water to wash sum parts put try and keep bearings and gearboxs/diff and your electrics dry.

once youve cleaned the dirt off get a soft paint brush and spary it with wd40 and brush the whole r/c down it makes the plastic shine and give it a water proof coating.



Edited by lincsrc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 11:14pm
Ive never upset anyone on these forums........ 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lincsrc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 11:17pm

before you try and set record times with your new r/c just take your time and learn to control it and you will soon be fast and under control.

practice makes perfect.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 11:20pm
I just want friends.......... 
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GBDUO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBDUO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 11:25pm

*Deleted*



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lincsrc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lincsrc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 11:27pm

allways make sure all your batterys are fully charged before you go out with it or fit a fail safe to your r/c.



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GBDUO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBDUO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 March 2006 at 11:30pm

*deleted*



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lincsrc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lincsrc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 March 2006 at 12:46am

if you change fuel content you will need to run the engine in again with the new nitro content as runnin temps will differ with the nitro content and you will also need a new glow plug temp.



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lincsrc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lincsrc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 March 2006 at 10:57pm

maintanance is key to a long living and good working r/c.



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GBDUO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBDUO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2006 at 7:09pm

Fuel:

Use Tornado Fuel, its the best!  Tornado 16% is what i use but if you want some more power without damaging the engine go for 25%. 

Byron is also a very good fuel if you cannot get Tornado.

Graham



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lincsrc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lincsrc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2006 at 7:25pm

yep gotta agree tornado 25% rules.

i use modle tech fuel for the lower content and find work very well in the smaller engines



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Mr Sparks View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr Sparks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 March 2006 at 7:34pm

I use 25% O'Donnel fuel and find it better than Tornado less smell to it too.

 

P.S don't try to tie your shoe lace in a revolving door

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lincsrc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 March 2006 at 1:34am

is o-donnel synthetic oil or mineral oil?

whats the power like throu the rev range with it?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr Sparks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 March 2006 at 10:52pm
Originally posted by lincsrc lincsrc wrote:

is o-donnel synthetic oil or mineral oil?

whats the power like throu the rev range with it?

to be honest I have no idea, but as it is a race formula a would guess its more synthetic oil based.

I run my menace and lst on it and have found it to be a good all rounder the lst has a Picco 27 engine which gives great power to full my LST running MC9 glow plugs

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