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HAVOC Tips/Tricks & useful info :-)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 1:59am
Sarcasm will not be tolerated. 
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AdrianM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdrianM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 4:47am
Originally posted by smileysmiff smileysmiff wrote:

both can supply stainless steel with ceramic inners !  they have to get them from somewhere !

maybe you guys could try getting them from your bearing factories !

but then there would be no more bearing problems , I thought that would be a good thing , but I could be wrong, AGAIN  ,but if I'm wrong I'm bloody lucky because I'm not having bearing problems any more !     no more melting plastic parts because of a departing hot bearing ,no more chucking off your clutch bell because of bearing failure ,no more wheels locking up because of bearing failure , In general I get to use my car MORE ,I thought thats what there for,  to use  ?

 I must be messed up   I'm sorry

 ceramic all the way

Mr. Smiff,

(Sarcasm Warning)

Have you priced a set of ceramic bearings lately?  Do you think the average RTR buyer willbe willing to pay they expense?

(Sarcasm Ended)

I said the new bearings car better.  We have tested them and they perform very well.  I am running the same exact type of bearings in my Mi2 and no one is more picky about bearings than me on my personal race car.  They will be great.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 7:17am

lol

and yes I have ,I  just put them through my car , not that badly priced for what you get ,well thats what I thought !  I just wished I had done it sooner ! I didn't because of cost but in time it has cost me more for not doing it .

do you want me to work out cost ?  now you have me thinking ,should I price what I can get standard Schumacher bearings from my LHS Frontl!ne  and compair it to what I paid for the ceramics from America ,

Now thats a scary thought !

I wonder what the difference would be in $$$'s

ps thanks for the warning   



Edited by smileysmiff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alfaracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 1:37pm

I feel like the tension spring from the fuel cap on the tank is quite weak...too soft spring...

when I have left 30% fuel in the tank, the carb does not suck out anymore fuel, engine stalls. when I fill the tank up again, all is fine.

any suggestions?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdrianM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 3:57pm

We haven't run into this during testing but you might be having a fuel level/gravity/fuel feed issue.  In an ideal world the fuel tank should be at a level where when half full the fuel level is even with the spray bar on the carburetor.  If this were to be done the tank will be very high and it would look very odd.  On the Havoc this would mean raising the tank ~15mm (that would look pretty crappy).

What happens is as the fuel level goes down the mixture gets leaner.  All R/C cars suffer from this to varying degrees.  This used to be a huge problem with 1/10th racing sedans a couple of years ago when they had low flat tanks.  Now most have squarish tall tanks.

I would suggest richening the mixture first.  This will alleviate or eliminate the problem with leaning late in a run.  You may also try plugging one exhaust tube for more fuel pressure. You could try raising the tank if you don't mind your mates looking at your car strangely.



Edited by AdrianM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wizard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 4:34pm

Just a to say,that the pressure line is long enough,i use both exhaust outlets(lost both rubber ext on them due to wheely's,that is fine) for running, raised the fuel tank and the front to 5mm and the engine runs perfect!

The performance is great and i have not altered the setting since i set it after break in.So,just tune the truck and have fun.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alfaracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 7:45pm
OK I'll raise the tank, and will let you know the result. thx !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 8:07pm
You could always tune the car at half-tank..... suprised nobody has suggested it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rajvirdee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 8:52pm
re the bearing debate - havocmanic and I have had around 40
tank fulls of hard bashing and racing and we've not had a
bearing failure yet, exept the issue with the clutch bell bearings.

I would have been more than happy to have to replace some of
them by now.

They seem to be holding up fine, which can't be said for the
manace I have!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote g-max Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2005 at 9:50pm

i can second that no probs with bearings yet and was racing it today 4 races

is it possible for the havoc to wheelie if so how do you do it

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowXTR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2005 at 12:55pm

Bearings, yes, quite a dillema, I know. i must agree with Smiley and agree that the problems I have had with the "genuine Schumacher" bearings, are frankly intolerable by any mechanical industry standard. By that I mean that any product which has such a short lifespan would be replaced, without question, at no charge to the customer.

I dont know if it is other cicumstances, ie; climate, or whatever that maybe affecting the performance of the product, but I do know that I would be rather embarrased if I was a part of the Schumacher team and knew this was a constant issue.

I recently, (2 days ago), rebuilt the diff in one of my XTR 3e's. I had to use "genuine" layshaft bearings and thought nothing of it, untill I dicsovered not one, but both of them had become crunchy after only 4 tanks of fuel! This was all on road driving I might add.

I can buy 10, 10x15x4 stainless steel bearings with ceramic balls for US$50. Thats full retail! Imagine what price they would be if i wanted to buy thousands of them! I started using these bearings about 8 months ago and I am yet to replace one of them. Before this I was constantly replacing ceased or collapsed "genuine" bearings at AU$8.95 for 2.

You are doing yourself a disservice by using the current bearing provider. Yes you would add cost to the end product, but you may counteract that by marketing the product as the only one with ceramic bearings.

I love Schumacer cars and especially the XTR, it is the most versitile and simple car any RC manufacturer has ever provided. I love it, but I have freinds with XTR's, Fusion's, Big 6's, Menace's, and Menace GTR's, (no Havocs yet), and surely we cant all be wrong when we say the biggest let down of all these fantastic cars is the genuine bearings.

Sorry for the essay, Cheers Ben.

 



Edited by lowXTR
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdrianM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2005 at 1:41pm

XTR - Ready the post above.  Your point is moot (i.e. beating a dead horse for you Americans out there) as we are already sourcing our bearings from a diffrent supplier.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wizard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2005 at 8:37pm

After some serious jumps and racing against other trucks i thought i would play around with the suspension and spring rates as i have a few spare springs around.

After taking the rear shocks of and the yellow springs i found that the shockpiston inside the shockhousing sticks like mad when trying to move it up and down to see how freely it moves.

Then it occured to me that is why truck is a bit odd to drive on the rough stuff as the shocks has very little movement at the back.

So i just wisked out the insides to have a look.It was a bit stubborn to take out as there was very,very small plastic pieces came out with the piston.

I sanded both piston discs on the rear shock down till i had a nice free movement inside the shock housing.Filled it up with 35w silicone shock oil to the desired level and reassembled.

Reassembled the rear suspension and now it is as smooth as can be!

Check the front one's,they where fine ,no problems,just replaced the fluid as in the back.

So,those who have a bit of time just inspect your Havo's shocks.

Do not blame Shumacher if you encounter this little hick-up,it can happen due to not seating propperly or not deburred enough.

Great truck ,just need some more vids from other Havoc racers.I'll be making one soon again!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alfaracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2005 at 3:20pm

clutch bearings gone....

after three tanks, running in... Man this is just not correct. Also the starting -axle from e-start has gone. I think I am regretting this buy.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdrianM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2005 at 4:27pm
Originally posted by alfaracer alfaracer wrote:

clutch bearings gone....

after three tanks, running in... Man this is just not correct. Also the starting -axle from e-start has gone. I think I am regretting this buy.

 

The bearings are a know issue on the very first batch of kits (2 bearings in clutch bell).  Contact Schumacher and they will send you the updated bearing kit no charge.  All the kits in stores now have the updated bearings (4 better bearings).

The e-start problem seems to happen to guys using powerful cordless drills.  All we ever used in testing were 7.2v cheapie units and we had no problems.  There are updated parts for this too.  Contact Schumacher and we will send them to you.

Despite all our testing things happen when kits get in the hands of consumers.  The good thing is Schumacher is a honest company and we are taking care of our customer when issues pop up.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alfaracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2005 at 5:05pm
thx , I appreciate your answer. Merry Christmas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MAG13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2005 at 5:08pm

Got a Havoc for Christmas - excellent surprise present. Never had an RC before. Got it working, idling ok. Goes forward just fine but no reverse, just will not engage reverse. Pulling the control stick backward stops the Havoc but it does not go backwards.

Help and advice much appreciated

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote will Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2005 at 5:59pm

I had the same problem with the clutch bearing and the e start but i got a new one within days of contacting schumacher and it all works fine i stoped using my old drill and got a new cheapo one for about 20 quid and now the truck starts every time first time and now im using tornado 25% fuel it flies.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdrianM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2005 at 6:21pm
Originally posted by MAG13 MAG13 wrote:

Got a Havoc for Christmas - excellent surprise present. Never had an RC before. Got it working, idling ok. Goes forward just fine but no reverse, just will not engage reverse. Pulling the control stick backward stops the Havoc but it does not go backwards.

Help and advice much appreciated

 

There is no reverse on the Havoc.  Most Nitro trucks do not have.  There are 3 or 4 monster trucks on the market tha do offer reverse but this features can cause lots of problems with stripped and jammed gearboxes.  I know one of the most popular hops up on these trucks is a reverse eliminator kit.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote roareruk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2005 at 6:23pm
Originally posted by MAG13 MAG13 wrote:

Got a Havoc for Christmas - excellent surprise present. Never had an RC before. Got it working, idling ok. Goes forward just fine but no reverse, just will not engage reverse. Pulling the control stick backward stops the Havoc but it does not go backwards.

Help and advice much appreciated



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