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HAVOC Tips/Tricks & useful info :-)

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Cerberus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cerberus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 April 2009 at 6:22pm
IIRC, to get the pinion off, you have to stop the engine from turning, or holding the pinion gear with a pair of pliers or something to grip it, once the allen bolt has been cracked, it should then come off easily.

When changing these on my mates havoc, the main gear was the hardest to get off, as his pin that holds it had sheared into threee and was really stuck.  Managed to get it off in the end with a few screw drivers and pliers, :D.
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KrashKrieger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KrashKrieger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 April 2009 at 3:50pm
Originally posted by Cerberus Cerberus wrote:

IIRC, to get the pinion off, you have to stop the engine from turning, or holding the pinion gear with a pair of pliers or something to grip it, once the allen bolt has been cracked, it should then come off easily.

When changing these on my mates havoc, the main gear was the hardest to get off, as his pin that holds it had sheared into threee and was really stuck.  Managed to get it off in the end with a few screw drivers and pliers, :D.


Thanks for the reply.  The pinion is attached to the clutchbell and it is off the truck with bearings taken out.  I couldn't see how to remove it.  Is it just stuck on the bell and I need to plier it off covering the gears with a rag?  I didn't want to ruin the bell. 

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Cerberus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cerberus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 April 2009 at 9:42pm
do you mean, the small cog, and the clutch bell?

If so, its all one part isn't it.

You can't take the pinion off the cluth bell.


I thought you were just trying to get the clutch bell/pinion off.
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KrashKrieger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KrashKrieger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2009 at 2:11pm
Thanks,  I thought it was just one part as well when I took it off.  If you look at the pictures though, the pinion is separate from the bell???
I think I'll have to call Shumy support and ask, unless anyone else knows.

clutch bell
http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/products.asp?recnumber=42128
pinion
http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/products.asp?recnumber=42806
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bucci View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bucci Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 January 2010 at 2:16am
any one got pics of infront side of the manic motor all the
pics i see are of the rear

Edited by bucci
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tar70403 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 February 2010 at 3:32am
Does the Manic 17mm wheel hex fit the havoc? If so, are there any
mods to make it work?
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Paul M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 February 2010 at 3:54pm
I would imagine so.  The Manic has a lot of common parts with the Havoc.  The Manic alloy upgrades for example are listed as Havoc parts on the main site...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tar70403 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 March 2010 at 7:50pm
Steering lever keeps breaking when landing from small jumps. I am
on my third lever now. Any fixes or upgrades?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote roivs1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2010 at 6:31pm

hi all:

i have a havoc spared, but complette... i dont have manual. i would like to know were i can get this without paying it new. if someone have a pdf manual please contact me.In this web there are a lot of manuals, but the havoc manual not appears.

Thanks for all and i think my havoc can be a very good basher.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rctruckz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2010 at 4:50pm

just... wow :D

i started this thread some 5 years ago & its still going lol :D

no longer have any shummys :( i went largescale, but its all good fun, just mad how i aint been on here for years & i just decided spare of the moment to pop in & see a thread i made 5 years ago still as popular ^^

hope you all keeping well!

Daz www.tizdaz.co.uk

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote roareruk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 December 2010 at 4:54pm
still got mine and still waiting on spares lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2011 at 7:49pm

Nice long thread, good tips amongst the chit chat. We just got 2 Havocks for my son and myself, these cars are insane. I had to chose between the Manic and Havoc, and it seems I chose right. I'll wait with the Manic till all the teething problems has been sorted before I buy one. I did 12 - 14m long jumps today on a motocross track from a mere 1/2 meter high dirt ramp. Thew cars fly very responsively and controlling pitch in the air is a breeze.Dispite 2 very serious roof landings, attempting front flips all is fine.

3 days ago I hit a concrete slab hidden in grass head-on at very high speed, I was at full throttle in about a 35m drag. The front bumper shatterd, the front bulkhead screws tore out, but with longer bolts and nylocks I was running in 10 minutes again. The Havock didnt even stall, it was still idling after it was cartwheeling for about 10m. The only neccecary repair I had was the cluth bearing, which packed up, but it showed sisns of rust or something, as I also bashed it in the bud the first day I got it.

All I can say is Blooooody helllll, this Havock is one kickass tough truck.

Thanks to Garry and my mates at GrandPrix models in Boksburg SA that advised me correctly.

Now for my question.Does anyone know of any other RC Nitro car that is as tough as a Havock??

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GregG100184 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 March 2011 at 5:24pm
hi, just fancying a little upgrade on my Havoc.

Can i use the 60T Main Gear 24dp - Hi Speed (U2899)   &   the Pinion 17T 24dp - Hi Speed (U2910)...at the same time.

Also, is the 60T Main Gear made of metal as it is an upgrade...or just plastic like the standard one.

thankx

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davehaynes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 January 2012 at 2:20am

hi guys, new member here.
i just brought a schumacher havoc last week and had no end of trouble with it, i seriously just want to set the damn thing on fire!!
when i got the car i bought a cheepo drill for £20 and this was 550 rpm (i have been told this is sufficient to start it) but it did nothing, so i exchanged it for a 700 rpm drill, still nothing.  they both turned the engine over fine and could smell the fuel burning but it just wont fire
it will OCCASIONALLY start when im using my 1200rpm corded drill but again this is tempremental and will only start 1 out of 50 times.
im just about at a loss with it.
thanks for any advice, Dave
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Paul M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2012 at 1:31am
Just random guesses here from the history you've given mate:
 
Start with the basics:
 
*  If you are using old fuel or fuel that you were given when you bought the truck, bin it and get brand-new nitro; this stuff doesn't store well once opened.
*  Reset the carb needles to factory settings (if you don't know what these are, a good starting point is to make sure all the needle screw heads sit flush with the carb body, or refer to the manual).
*  If you are using an old glow start, or one that you have been given with the model, give it a few hours charging and check that it is working.  The easiest way to check this is to remove your glow plug from the engine and briefly push it into the glow start; the filament should glow yellow to white hot pretty quickly.  If it doesn't, try a brand new plug.  If the filament doesn't glow, the starter itself is probably shot, but always have a couple of spare plugs around too and check more than one; it isn't unheard of to get dud batches, and you can occasionally find that brand-new ones are faulty.  If your new plug glows and the old one doesn't, put the new one into the engine, prime, and try and start it.
 
If this all fails, other things to check:
 
*  All engine components are properly tightened down and sealed; cooling head to engine block, glow plug into cooling head (do not over-tighten the plug though!), starter backplate to engine block, carb into engine block.
 
*  Air filter clean, free from dirt and oiled properly.
 
*  Idle screw at right setting; remove air filter and look down into carb - the slider should have a very slight gap so that air and fuel can still enter (refer to the manual for settings, or if you weren't given one, there are manuals available in PDF and Word format to download from the main part of the website).  If it is closed off completely, your engine won't idle and you'll have to screw the adjustment screw in (clockwise) a turn or two.
 
*  No loss of compression; engine should be easy to prime by closing the exhaust off and turning over for 3-4 seconds or so.  You should prime until you see fuel entering the lines, keep priming for a couple of seconds after it enters the carburettor.  Resistance to turning over should increase when the glow start is applied.  If you are having to rev the b0llocks out of your drill to get it to start, there is a problem and your compression might have been lost - these engines do not need massive revs or torque to kick them into life.  If there is no discernible difference in resistance to turning the engine over before priming, whilst priming, and then starting attempts, compression has probably been lost and a new piston and sleeve may be required.
 
*  Check that your fuel lines are attached properly and haven't perished.
 
*  Check your fuel tank lid is sealing properly (the spring should forcibly close it).
 
*  Check that the clunk filter (look into bottom of fuel tank) isn't blocked with residue.
 
*  Check that the manifold is properly sealing to the exhaust outlet of the engine, then check that the tuned pipe is sealed to the manifold.
 
If none of this works, strip the engine down:
 
*  Check that there is no damage (this should be obvious to the eye).  Any rust inside the block, piston or sleeve indicates that the engine has been stored with fuel in it.  The piston head should have a golden-brown tinge, not black or blue.  It should also be smooth.
 
*  Check that the one-way bearing isn't slipping.
 
*  Give all internals a blast with nitro cleaner before reassembling if all is well.
 
If there is damage, the parts will need to be replaced.  If nothing seems to be wrong and you've checked all of the above, and you still can't start it, take it to your nearest R/C store or racing club and ask for their help.  They are all usually pretty approachable.  Someone else might chime in here with other ideas (it is half one in the morning and I've been up 21 hours already, so thought processes are far from 100%!).
 
Best of luck and welcome to the forum.  ;-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davehaynes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2012 at 1:13pm
thanks for the reply with alot of usefull info :)
i stripped the engine down last week and everything was fine.
the glow starter works fine and the plug lights up nice and hot straight away
fuel lines and tank are all in great condition
it has a brand new air filter and the exhaust manifold is sealed properly.

i think the only problem is the fuel mixture settings on the HSN and LSN, but the only problem is that ive totally forgot how to set these engines up, its been years since i last had one. back then my local hobby shop was more than happy to help you out with anything but since then it has been taken over by new owners who seem to just want to sell you new parts and move you out the door.
as i said in earlier post i am having trouble starting it from handheld drills, when the enigine mixtures are set up properly will this make it easier to start or will it just effect running conditions?
thanks.
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Paul M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2012 at 7:03pm
Both to be honest; if your low speed needle is out you'll have trouble starting and idling because your fuel/air mixture for starting won't be right.  The same applies for the high speed; you'll have poor performance and acceleration.
 
Just had a look at the downloadable (don't know if that's even a word!) manual, and the factory carb settings are on the right hand side; match them and you should at least be able to idle and then have a good starting point for tuning:
 
 
Do this, then if you at least get it running, follow the tuning guide which is "stickied" to the top of the nitro trucks forum.
 
Starting from cordless drills should not be a problem, in fact, this is the recommended way.  550rpm MINIMUM is required though, so your 700rpm one should be more than enough.  You shouldn't need to be starting with a mains-powered drill; that is entirely way too much torque to be putting through your engine.  If you accidently over-prime and hydrolock the engine, starting with a 240v drill can cause serious damage to your engine, or worse, to you from any kick-back or things snapping!  Cordless drills in general are better; they usually have variable torque and speed, and they stop a hell of a lot quicker than a 240v one if things go wrong.  If you are having to use your mains drill at max revs to start it, I definitely think your engine has lost compression, either from previous bad tuning, or maybe just because it has reached the end of its life.
 
Do you know how old the car is, how often it has been used, how well it has been maintained?
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