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HAVOC Tips/Tricks & useful info :-)

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jocat0 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jocat0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 October 2008 at 11:11pm
i have just acquired a havoc and it runs great. However my breaks dont seem to work which is rather worrying as the car drives great. It does eventually stop but not as it should do takes a while. Any ides whats wrong.

thanks
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necron View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote necron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 October 2008 at 6:36am

The breaks on this truck can be a real pain.  Keep a piece of fuel tubing between the brake lever in the tranny and the collet.  The truck should roll freely without brakes and drag with a slight touch of brakes.  Full brakes should lock the wheels tight.

If your linkages are correctly set up, then your disc brake may need to be replaced or adjusted.  You might also want to try lightly scuffing the brake pad with a bit of sandpaper if it is really smooth.

All in all though, you do not really need a whole lot of brake on the Havoc.  If the brake slows it down even just a little, that's probably enough brake. 

I like the 23mm wheel adaptors.  It allows you to put anything available on the market on your ride.  And a chassis brace is essential, unless you want to turn your Havoc into a cereal bowl.



Edited by necron
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La La View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote La La Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2008 at 10:18am
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madmarty View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmarty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2008 at 12:24pm

im ready for new tyres on my havoc and are thinking of the 23mm wheel adaptors i go on sand alot so is there any recomendations please

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La La View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote La La Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2008 at 4:11pm
sand paddles lol
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madmarty View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmarty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2008 at 4:59pm

Originally posted by La La La La wrote:

sand paddles lol

l cant find any in the right size at all  any help

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stormdrum View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stormdrum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2008 at 5:04pm
What size wheels does the Havoc have?
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madmarty View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmarty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2008 at 6:30pm

Originally posted by stormdrum stormdrum wrote:

What size wheels does the Havoc have?

im getting the 23mm adapters so not sorted wheels for mine out yet

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La La View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote La La Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 November 2008 at 7:55am
measure your savage wheels i think they fit the havoc
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bobbo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 January 2009 at 5:47pm
u could use the nanda racing tyres as thats what they come with as long as there for the raptor the will fit
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bobbo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 February 2009 at 8:39pm
hey ive lost one of the ristrictiors for the pipe and carnt find them on the schumacher website can someone help please !
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sirus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sirus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 March 2009 at 9:32am
the restrictors are in speedsecrets section.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 March 2009 at 7:38pm
cheers 
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Dean Winstanley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dean Winstanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 March 2009 at 11:53pm

Hi i've inherited a havoc from a friend a few weeks back and i love it.(well its my dads but he doesnt use it) Its had 2 bad crashes so far 1st time dad drove it into a fence and snapped a wishbone and shocker on the front and just recently hit a goalpost at max speed and bent the chassis i fixed it all today with a new chassis and ball joints.

I was planning on manufacturing some bullbars that would fit where the front bumper goes to hopefully prevent more damage and i reacon it would look ace. Has anyone actually tried this and is there any way to strengthen the chassis.

Also i want to start replacing the oe parts with the speed secret parts where is best to start.

 

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necron View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote necron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 March 2009 at 2:07am

The best place for this truck would be a chassis brace IMO.  Also, if you are still running the stock tires you can pick up another set of aluminium wheel adapters to go on the front.  Not the 23mm jobs, but another set of the stock rear tire adapters.  It will help prevent the wheel breaking off the axle on a severe cartwheel action.  The 23mm adapters with 23mm MTR wheels are also good.

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Dean Winstanley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dean Winstanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 March 2009 at 7:45pm
thanks for that my truck already has these on the front wheels. I have a new problem after about 3 tanks of fuel to tune the carb i think i got it spot on but after this and the engine cooled down i couldnt start it again. the main problem is the drill start sticks like its jammed it frees up if i turn it back but does it again after a few more turns. ive had the heatsink off and their doesnt look like there is any damage to the piston and liner inside any ideas what might cause this as i dont want to snap the e-start
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necron View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote necron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 March 2009 at 2:37am

It sounds like it could be a simple case of hydro lock.  Remove the glowplug with the truck upside down and then run the starter without the glowplug for a few seconds.  This will allow the excess fuel to drain from the combustion chamber and also prevent dust and dirt from falling into it.  Reinstall the glowplug (inspect it for damage and replace if need be), prime(but not too much), and try again.

(Also, I think the connecting rod will break before you starter shaft.  You definitely don't want that to happen.) 

I also preheat the engine with an old hair dryer before I start it up.  I find it really helps to get them going, and theoretically I suppose, it should reduce wear and lead to longer engine life.  I've only got 2 gallons in my .28 TT, but it's still as snotty as a moose on a rampage.

If this doesn't solve your problem then hopefully somebody with a little more experience will speak up soon.  Responses here are usually painfully slow.

On a last note, if you are using your truck often, then use WD-40 (petroleum distilate) for after run care.  Only use the After Run Oil (automatic transmission fluid) for long term or if you are in a high humidity environment.

Happy Trails!!

 



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sirus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sirus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 March 2009 at 11:41am

after run oil is useless unless its for a long store, and then you should track down the ARO from a modding place, all other after run oils dont actually prevent rust and seizing

using a hair dryer is kind of silly unless you are driving in snow,

the connecting rod will not snap befor your starter shaft, but the starter shaft will strip befor either snap.

but you were right about the hydro lock,

my havoc came out of the box with a bent chassy, i would definatly argee with putting on the chassy brace, upgrading to alloy wishbones, and bulkhead is a good idea as well, the alloy hubs just create problems.

its also not uncommon for the thundertigers to take 16 gallons befor any sort of wear and tear happens, they are top engins for what they cost.

bullbar would look awesome but would just transfer the hit to the chassy so really wouldent do anything unless you put a crumple zone in.

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necron View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote necron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2009 at 4:05am

I use a hair dryer to preheat the enigne because I usually start up my trucks on a bench in the workshop, and electricity is readily available.  I should have mentioned that I drive more in cooler temperatures then in warm weather.  (Warm weather being more suited to sitting in the basement playing PS3, of course!)  When away from the house, I do not preheat.

Sirius, I didn't realize the TT.28 had such an expected lifespan.  It's good to know.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KrashKrieger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 April 2009 at 6:11pm
I have lurked on this thread for a while.  Thanks to those subscribers that continue to post help. 
2 questions for those of you out there.
   - I bought the high speed Main gear and Pinion...the problem is I can't seem to get the pinion off the clutch bell...anyone know what to do to change this gear? Anyone have experience running these?

- What are the factory HSN and LSN settings?  I like to know when tuning gets frustrating and need to reset to factory...
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