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CAT 2000 Questions

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Chrissy C View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03 September 2013 at 3:43pm
Hi,
 
I have just got a CAT 2000 EC, I should have it in a couple of days. I used to have one way back when so i know the car pretty well, but i've been looking at some diagrams of this car, the 98 (which came after the 2000 right?!) the 3000 and the later gen CAT's just to get back up to speed.
 
I think I'm going to make up a bit of a hybrid car, i'd like to retain the essence of the 2000, but use more recent parts (if possible) to get a better overall car - items like shocks, driveshafts, slipper assembly etc.
 
Quick couple of questions before I get too carried away though...
 
What was the purpose of the offset motor mount/belt path on the 2000 gen cars? I remember it, and recall there was a reason...but that reason escapes me! I can get a chassis redrawn to remove this and make the drivetrain more efficent, but it all depends on why Mr. Schumacher did it in the first place lol.
 
Re driveshafts, was there any inherent issues with the old plastic slider driveshafts with the 2000? I quite liked them back in the day for being cheap to replace, light etc...but Schumacher did away with them quite quickly...
 
Thanks all for your help.
 
Best,
Chris
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zeb44 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zeb44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 September 2013 at 7:53pm
Plastic driveshafts are quite strong, but not unbreakable. If you break one, good luck to find a replacement one... So if you find some you should replace them with blade ones.
I raced my Cat 2000 with cat SX shocks, alloy transmission housing and n adjustable front freewheel. It behaved fairly well with a SP V3 6.5.
Very important to find alloy trans housings (rear and front), rear for the motor cooling and global resistance to crashes, front for resistance to crashes (the screws get loose with the plastic housings).
Verry important also to change the freewheel. The stock one is not adjustable. You can replace it with the adjustable alloy one (2 positions, free or blocked) or with the FAB (very expensive and very difficult to find)

Good luck and have fun.
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IamSerious View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IamSerious Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 September 2013 at 11:32pm
Originally posted by zeb44 zeb44 wrote:

Plastic driveshafts are quite strong, but not unbreakable. If you break one, good luck to find a replacement one... 

Hard to find? I have HEAPS of spare parts for C2000 plastic slider driveshafts sitting about doing nothing.... and I don't even have a Cat2000 any more!

Alex
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Chrissy C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrissy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 September 2013 at 3:42pm
Thanks for the replies guys, IamSerious, do you have any rear EC/98 wishbones, part # U1800C?
 
Cheers,
Chris
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Chrissy C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrissy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 September 2013 at 11:16am
Does anyone have a scan/copy of a CAT 3000 manual that they wouldn't mind emailing me? I have the exploaded view, just wanted the manual for a few specifics. Please PM if you have one.
 
Cheers,
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Typpo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 September 2013 at 2:53pm
Originally posted by zeb44 zeb44 wrote:

Plastic driveshafts are quite strong, but not unbreakable. If you break one, good luck to find a replacement one... So if you find some you should replace them with blade ones.
I raced my Cat 2000 with cat SX shocks, alloy transmission housing and n adjustable front freewheel. It behaved fairly well with a SP V3 6.5.
Very important to find alloy trans housings (rear and front), rear for the motor cooling and global resistance to crashes, front for resistance to crashes (the screws get loose with the plastic housings).
Verry important also to change the freewheel. The stock one is not adjustable. You can replace it with the adjustable alloy one (2 positions, free or blocked) or with the FAB (very expensive and very difficult to find)

Good luck and have fun.
Rather than FAB, didn't the cars of this time (e.g. CAT 2000 (EC, SE, 98) and CAT 3000,) use the TDS? 
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Chrissy C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrissy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 September 2013 at 12:23pm
Thanks for the comments everyone and to The Incredible Serious for all the manuals. The project is coming along ok, i have collected a lot of parts...just need to decide what i want to build with them now!
 
At the moment a 2000/3000 hybrid is looking favourite - a EC front end and 3000 back end...still trying to work out drivetrain layout, but one thing I know is that I want to use this lovely looking EC shell that I've just had delivered from TBG, so i need to check if the 3000 layout would fit under the EC lid - anyone know as i'm still waiting on parts to test this out.
 
Typpo, I think all the kits you reference come with a free roller / clicker type set up as zeb44 describes, TDS and FAB are both upgrades...i think!
 
I also have a Fireblade USA on the way and front end parts to convert this to a Firebalde 2000 (laydown shocks)...i'm even considering mixing and matching a 3000 and a Fireblade for a slightly different take on a mid motor 2WD car...we'll see what happens.
 
Cheers,
Chris
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MattW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 September 2013 at 8:44pm
99.9% sure that the motor on the 3000 layout would clash with a 2000 shell.  If anything, the 2000 transmission was probably stronger than the 3000.  The 3000 was prone to a lot of rear belt skip, unless you had the belt very tight.  The shorter 2000 rear belt was better for this - that and the fact that there was a lot more "wrap" on the layshaft pulley.  I ran all variants of both 2000 and 3000's and still have my final 3000 in the spare room. 
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Chrissy C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrissy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 September 2013 at 11:10am
Thanks for your feedback Matt. I never had a 3000, so that's very good to know.
 
I was going to opt for the 3000 transmission as the motor is so far back in the 2000, based on what you've said though i'll stick with it for now and counter some of the motor weight with the ESC.
 
Do you think some of the belt skip in the 3000 is due to the belt roller pushing the belt down (which would reduce wrap around the centre pulley) as opposed pushing it up? (hope that makes sense).
 
Cheers,
Chris
 
 
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MattW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 September 2013 at 7:28pm
Yup! It's that way to ensure that the belt misses the motor / pinion. 

It's not the end of the world, you can run the belt fairly tight, although back in the day I didn't used to worry too much about it.  If the belt had a bit of a click, then let it get on with it!!


Edited by MattW - 23 September 2013 at 7:29pm
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Chrissy C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrissy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 September 2013 at 3:04pm
Ah yes, forgot abou the whole 'pinion in the way' issue!
 
The car is coming on well, just waiting on some Fibre-Lyte parts now, its turning out to be mixture of a CAT 2000 drivetrain, with a CAT 98 chassis and CAT 3000 suspension.
 
Quick question...what rear toe (inboard) does the CAT 2000 have as standard? 
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MattW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 September 2013 at 7:01pm
Standard 2000 had 0deg inboard. First gen wishbones had some toe built into them. EC and onward had parallel pin wishbones, and all the toe was on the hub.

Then, the alloy inner blocks and steel braces came out that had 3 degree inboard!!

You might need to keep an eye on your front track width with that combo - as i think the 3000 front arms were shorter than 2000 ones, as the inner "U" pin was wider on the 3000. 
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Chrissy C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrissy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 October 2013 at 10:52am

A lot of running changes ther ethen lol! I was planning on running the alu blocks, i didn't realise that they had to be coupled with the steel braces - the ones i have are bent, so i'll have to get some new ones made up.

Thanks for the heads up on the trackwidth, i just got a new 'U' pin for the 3000 from your website (only as the old one was out of stock), despite the different part number, i didn't know the part was different. Luckily Fibre-Lyte haven't started my chassis yet so i can adjust the front end to accept the 3000 parts...phew! I'll also have to widen the top deck at that section as well so that the top of the holes line up with the long servo screws...think thats it...
 
Cheers Matt.
 
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 October 2013 at 6:59pm
The steel braces were deliberately bent - with the 3 deg angle. 
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