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Moulded blocks vs alloy blocks

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juergen_jl View Drop Down
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Joined: 31 August 2008
Location: Germany
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    Posted: 04 June 2012 at 9:01am
Hi,

my history: starting with a CAT SX I, then SX II, now the III Clap but, to be honest: last year I used a Durango DEX410 spec 2010

But: over the time I am more and more confused/helpless about the pins holding the rear and front axle.

Lets start with the rear. The SX I came with the alloy part, 3517. They work fine, But it was a little bit tricky to handle them. But all in all, a solid solution, with lots of set-up "offerings". The SXII and SX III came with the plastic parts, 3588, Easy to handle, but without ANY possibility to set them up.

Question:
- Is someone of the pros using the moulded blocks rear?


Front:
beside the internal gear this was one reason to leave the cat in 2011. both is touchable. OK, with the Upgrade kit 3794 the pin for the SXII is reduced and the III never came with the other solution. 
The alloy looks great and offers tons of setup opportunities, but: it was impossible for me the keep the screws fixed. They loose up each run. I always have to maintain them. But sometimes, the maintenance did not stayed even for a run. So they became loose and over time, my alloy blocks are "bent", now. Replacing them by the moulded blocks makes live easier. 

Question:
- what are the pros doing to provent the screws to become loose? I tried the following:
- no thread lock (the worst)
- Durango Thread lock (the red one)
- UHU Thread lock

Last weekend, I had a race on a very dry, very low-grip clay. OK, using the moulded blocks front, I did not had the chance to use the 7,5° front rake. (moulded is 10). 

Question:
Reading the manual, it says, that MORE castor (Rake plus Front Yoke) makes the steering feeling softer So on a low grip i would expect a 10° Rake, plus 12,5 ° Yoke. But: on the setup sheet from Tom of the worlds warmup (he mentioned: low grip level) I read: 7,5° rake plus 7,5° Yoke... WHY????
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spu83 View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 June 2012
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spu83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 June 2012 at 12:20am
From Tom setup he got a lot of rear traction (37.5mm rear camber plate, lot of anti-squat - high pin front and low pin rear, mounting location on the rear hub) that's almost max out the rear traction limit of the car any more caster will make the car like a dragster.
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lochness42 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lochness42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 June 2012 at 6:02am
Rear moulded vs alloy blocks - have used both. Moulded are pretty good setup wise an you still can adjust toe in, on SX3 you got also holes in bulkheads for 2 different height settings.
As for screws Loctite threadlock works for me, didn't try other brand.
On SX3 I run 10.5 wishbone mounts and 7.5 front yoke. Reason is quite simple SX1 and 2 were way more aggresive steering wise where with SX3 you have to run less caster if you want more steering.
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