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New Manic Break in problems

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bobmo View Drop Down
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    Posted: 04 September 2010 at 7:41pm
I've finally got my new manic started. I'm still in the early stages of break in. I've run about 3 or 4 tanks now. It's drinking fuel faster than I drink ale. I noticed to begin with that the rubber elbos on the 2 exhaust pipes joining to the mainifolds were quite loose and fuel was spitting out. I've now used a gasket sealent to stop that. I'm using 20% nitro as I use in my Riot with the original glow plugs. It won't as yet idle without cutting out even though the idle screw is right open now. I've tried running it gently around the garden but it needs loads of throttle to get moving. Am I running too rich? My low end is flush and I'm about 4 turns out on the top. I'm hoping it was just the exhaust issue. Any ideas?
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bobmo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 September 2010 at 12:56pm
I've tried it since. I've now used about a dozen tanks. The exhaust is no longer leaking. I've tried various needle settings and it still runs bad. Both plugs are fine and there are no leaks (that I can see). Acceralltion is terrible and top end isn't that great. There's plenty of smoke. It does pick up a bit once the low end is cleared but it's very sluggish. The only improvement has been that the leaner the bottom end the better it idles as before it was dying if I didn't use a bit of throttle. All indications point to it running to rich however the low end needle has been quite a way in from factory settings, and it seems to run out of steam (metaphorically) at the top end. I really need some help with this one, I've never had this much trouble before. It's got me stumped! 
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Anthoop View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anthoop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 September 2010 at 4:52pm

Looking at the manual ( http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Technical_Info/Schumacher/ Current%20Cars/Manic/Instruction%20Manual/manic_page8.jpg  ) the LSN should be 1.5mm below flush and the HSN should be 3 turns out from closed as base settings. The throttle gap should be 1mm.

I would adjust to those settings and go from there...adjusting HSN first then LSN.

 

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bobmo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 September 2010 at 5:16pm
Yeah, I've seen that. to be fair I have had the LSN in every position possible just about. I think I'm just wary about running to lean on a new engine. the modelshop I got it from suggested that the LSN probably won't need altering. I don't go with that particularly. I'll try base settings again and see how I do. I'll let you know. Thanks for your help.
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Anthoop View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anthoop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 September 2010 at 7:59pm

So long as you have a smoke trail then you are not running lean, the sound of the engine will also let you know if you are running lean...also smell.

If you are worried about going too lean then buy a temp gauge, I do not have one and have always tuned by sight and sound.

Like I said before, get the HSN set correctly first and then adjust the LSN, good luck and let us know how it goes.

Edit-There are many videos on youtube giving demostrations of how to tune, they may help. :)



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Jeffwazz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeffwazz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 September 2010 at 10:02pm
It should run reasonably well at the manual settings. A terrible idle could be caused by a rich LSN, all the excess fuel essentially quenches the plugs and out it goes. Mine is set per the manual and it idles well.
Just a thought, are both engines running? With the engine at idle, are both crankcases hot? It is possible to have one engine running without the other, and it'll be rich- fuel for 2 engines into 1.
Check the syncro belt is still turning the front engine-you can see the end of the crankshaft just past the receiver switch.
Try all of the previous suggestions in this thread, and persevere, when it's running, the manic is awesome!
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bobmo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2010 at 8:30am
I took everything back to base settings, got it up to temperature (without a temp gun) then started to tune it. I'm sure i was running the LSN to rich. It was torque steering and hacking down the road before the receiver batteries went flat. Every other set i had were just as bad. So that ended my tuning seesion rather abruptly. But I think i'm getting there. Thanks.
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bobmo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2010 at 5:39pm

Thanks for response. I've tried it today and found out that the second engine (the one nearest the front of car) was barely running. I think this was because of the rich setting dowsing the plug with fuel. I only found this out by accident. But according to my starter (with guage) the plug was working fine. I've replaced the plug and it seems to be a bit more consistent. Will the second engine be more inclined to stall during these circumstances because it relies on the first engine?

 

My main concern now is that I thought the car was ready to run normally, as the break in process was complete, but it's probably only been running on one engine until now. I've now started tuning it and therefore been revving it up when the second engine hasn't been broken in properly. Although the second engine has been turning over, the fact I ran about 10 tanks through the engines, would that count as a reasonable break-in? Or have I reduced the life of the engine?

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Jeffwazz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeffwazz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2010 at 8:39pm
By my thinking, the front engine has been running with fuel, and
therefore lubrication since you started the engine, so hopefully that'll
have stopped excessive wear. It's not seized so that can only be a
good sign!
Give it a few more tanks, gently, with lots of heat cycling to get the
front engine fully heat-cycled and bedded in. See how it goes from
there. Maybe check the compression of the individual engines after
you've done this.
I'll pass on answering if you've reduced the engine life, you'll only
know that when it finally stops!
I've seen engines wrecked within one tank (not mine!), and some
horribly abused and heated to the point of where the crankcase
smokes and smells "odd"(this was my thunder tiger-didn't realise you
needed holes in the body for airflow and cooling-oops) still going
very well after probably 50 litres of fuel.
Don't panic, see how it goes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonnnblue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2010 at 8:16pm
change your glow plugs for os no.8's. i had exactly the same problem and was cured in as long as it took to put those new plugs in.
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big mike View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote big mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 February 2012 at 8:00pm
iv brought a manic 36 twin new there was a problem with it so i sent it in to be repeard and that was done i got it back today got it running sound theres no revers and i put some 20% fule in and it lasted 30-40 mins then cut out and now theres no comprestion there so it wont start Angry   can some one help me thank you
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Paul M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2012 at 5:04pm
Nitro models rarely have reverse and the Manic definitely doesn't.  Your reverse on the controller is the brakes.  If you've lost compression, you need to check that there might not be a simple reason for it; check that your glow plugs are screwed in properly, check that your cooling head bolts are tightened down properly.  If it's none of those, you may need new pistons and cylinder liners.  If you have to do that, you'll need to go through the running-in process again, but I would first get someone to check that your tuning isn't too lean before starting it up and running it in again.  If you are running lean, you'll simply fry the new pistons and liners in no time because the engine lubricant is contained within the fuel, and there won't be enough of it to lubricate the engine properly.  Best of luck.
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